Questions and Answers:

We answer our most frequently asked questions about appliance repair in Victoria and the CRD. ​*Updated August 31st, 2026

Who is Appliance Repair Victoria and what do you actually repair? - Appliance Repair Victoria is a local, family-oriented appliance repair company that has been working on major home appliances across Greater Victoria and south Vancouver Island since 1988. We come to your door to diagnose and repair refrigerators, freezers, washers, dryers, dishwashers, ranges, ovens, cooktops, stove hoods, ice makers, gas appliances, RV and motorhome appliances, and other major household units. We service all brands, makes, models, and years.

What we are not: a small-appliance drop-off counter. We do not rebuild toasters, blade coffee grinders, handheld vacuums, or similar countertop gadgets. Our work is same-day, all-brand, in-home repair of the appliances that actually stop a household: cold food, clean clothes, hot meals, and dry laundry. That includes appliances in Airbnbs and rental suites, because those are still home appliances in a home. We do not repair commercial kitchen equipment. If you are unsure whether your unit is in scope, call (778) 400-2049 with the brand and model and we will tell you straight.

How long does it take to repair my appliance? - We provide same day and emergency appliance repair, which means we strive to get your appliance fixed on the same day that you call us for a diagnosis. However, sometimes to fix your appliance certain parts will need to be replaced, and if we don't have those parts on hand then they must be ordered. We can often get parts delivered on the same day, but in some cases parts can't arrive until the next day, so in rare cases it may take up to two days to fix your appliance, but most commonly it can be done within a few hours of the diagnosis.

How much does appliance repair cost? - The minimum fee for appliance repair is $95 as this is our diagnosis fee. This $95 then goes towards the total cost of the repair service, which most commonly ranges from $180 to $230. Learn more about our appliance repair costs here.

What appliance brands do you service? - Our company services all brands of appliances, even exotic brands and imports.

What is the 50% rule? How does it determine if it's worth repairing my appliance? - If the cost of repairing your appliance is less than 50% of the value of your appliance, then yes it's totally worth it. If the repair cost is more than 50% of the value of your appliance, then getting a new appliance may be worth it depending on your budget. That's what we call the "50% rule". New appliances cost thousands of dollars, while repair cost rarely reaches over $400, but it's possible to find used appliances that are much more affordable than brand new ones.

Do you provide a warranty? - Yes, we always provide a free 1 year warranty with each appliance repair job. This warranty covers any replacement parts we used to fix the appliance as well as our labor in replacing these parts. That means if the appliance breaks down again within a year and its the because of the same issue as before or our technicians made a mistake (which they almost never do) then we will come and fix the appliance again for free.

Do you offer same-day and emergency appliance repair in Victoria, BC? - Yes. Same-day service is a core part of how we work, not a slogan we hide behind “subject to availability” fine print. When a fridge warms up in James Bay, a washer floods a suite in Langford, or a dryer dies mid-load in Saanich, we treat that as urgent. We are open seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Call (778) 400-2049 as early as you can and we will aim to get a technician to you the same day.

Examples of true emergency work are standing water, a smell of gas, a fridge full of perishable food, a rental suite with no laundry before guest check-in. These should be flagged when you book. We carry common parts on the vehicle so many repairs finish on the first visit. If a rare part has to come from the mainland, we will say so before you approve the job, not after the tech has left.

What are your hours? Are you open evenings, weekends, and holidays? - We are open 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., seven days a week. That includes Saturdays and Sundays. Victoria households do not only break appliances between 9 and 5 on weekdays, and neither do Airbnbs or property managers. Holiday coverage can vary with staffing, so if you need service on a statutory holiday, call and ask rather than assuming we are closed. The fastest way to book a visit is still a phone call: (778) 400-2049.

Which neighborhoods and cities do you serve? - We serve Victoria and south Vancouver Island, including Victoria West, Esquimalt, James Bay, Fernwood, Oak Bay, Gordon Head, Saanich, North Saanich, Saanichton, Cordova Bay, Brentwood Bay, View Royal, Langford, Colwood, Metchosin, Highlands, Sidney, and surrounding communities. We also serve Sooke, Jordan River, Duncan, Millstream, Shawnigan Lake, and Cowichan Bay for many appliance types, although as we're Victoria-based travel time is a factor for these north areas.

If you are on the edge of the coverage map, like further up the Island, a Gulf Island, or a rural address off the usual loop, call us anyway. Travel time affects scheduling more than it changes whether we can do the work. We would rather tell you the next available window than leave you guessing, and we're friends with other companies who may be able to help.

Do you come to condos, apartments, townhouses, and strata buildings? - Yes. A large share of Greater Victoria housing is condos, walk-ups, and townhouses. We work in high-rises downtown, older walk-ups in Fernwood, townhomes in Langford, and strata buildings in Saanich and Oak Bay. Tell us about parking, loading-bay rules, elevator bookings, and whether the appliance is in a stackable closet or a tight galley kitchen. Those details determine how long the visit takes and which parts we stage on the truck.

Strata bylaws sometimes restrict in-suite work hours, water shut-offs, or balcony access for dryer vents. If your building needs a certificate of insurance or a vendor form, ask when you book so we are not standing in the lobby filling paperwork while your fridge warms up.

How do I book a repair? Do I need the model number first? - Call (778) 400-2049 or use the quote form located throughout this website. Have the appliance type, brand, a short description of the symptom, and your neighborhood ready. The model and serial numbers help us arrive with the right parts although this is not needed for booking. To find the model and serial numbers, they are usually on a sticker inside the fridge door, behind the washer or dryer kick plate, on the dishwasher door frame, or on the oven frame when you open the door. If you cannot find them, book anyway. We will identify the unit on site.

Sending photos of the error code, the leak, or the data plate also may save us time and therefore may save you money. We give a free cost estimate over the phone based on what you describe, then confirm the exact repair and quote after diagnosis in your home.

What happens during a typical service call? - A technician arrives in the booked window, confirms the symptom with you, and inspects the appliance. Diagnosis includes visual checks, electrical tests, and running the unit through the relevant cycle when it is safe to do so. You get a clear explanation of what failed, what it will cost to repair, and whether repair or replacement is the smarter spend. No work starts until you approve it!

If the part is on the truck, like belts, pumps, elements, fuses, valves, many motors and boards, then the repair is often finished in the same visit. If a part must be ordered, we explain the timeline and return to complete the job. When we are done, we test the appliance and leave the work area as we found it. Completed repairs carry our free 1-year service warranty.

How should I prepare before the technician arrives? - Clear a working space around the appliance. Move laundry baskets, compost bins, kids’ art, and that stack of cookbooks off the stove. For a washer or dishwasher, empty it so we can run a test cycle. For a fridge, you do not need to empty every shelf unless we have already told you the unit may need to be pulled out or the food is unsafe. Secure pets. If the unit is in a garage or suite, make sure we can reach it without waiting for a lockbox code.

Write down the error code, when the problem started, and anything you already tried (reset, new filter, cleaned lint trap). That history stops us from repeating dead-end steps and keeps the diagnosis fee working toward the repair instead of toward rediscovering what you already know.

Do I need to be home the entire time? - Someone 18 or older who can authorize the repair and payment should be present for diagnosis and approval. After that, you do not need to hover. Property managers and Airbnb hosts can authorize a building manager, cleaner, or neighbor; tell us the contact and access plan when you book. We will not start paid work on a verbal “just fix whatever” from someone who is not the account holder unless you have already put that authorization in writing or on the phone with us.

Do you repair appliances in rental buildings and Airbnbs? - Yes. An Airbnb or rental suite is still a home, so the appliances are residential. We repair the same major units we repair in any Victoria house or condo: fridge doors that will not seal after guest use, oven elements that fail mid-turnover, noisy hood fans, washer and dryer switches, dryer balance issues, and ice makers. Same-day service matters here because a dead fridge is not just inconvenient; it is a cancelled booking and a bad review! We do not repair commercial kitchen equipment. If you manage multiple doors, ask about a standing relationship so we already know your buildings, preferred parts, and who can approve spend.

Is the $95 diagnosis fee waived or credited? - The $95 is a diagnosis fee, not a mystery trip charge. It covers the technician coming to your home in Greater Victoria, inspecting the appliance, and telling you exactly what is wrong and what it costs to fix. If you approve the repair, that $95 goes toward the total. If you decline, because the appliance is not worth repairing, you want to think it over, or you choose replacement, you still have to pay the diagnosis fee for the work already done.

That structure is standard across reputable Canadian shops and is cheaper than guessing on parts from a big-box aisle. We would rather you pay $95 for a clear answer than $200 for the wrong part and a fridge that still will not cool.

Do you give free estimates over the phone? - Yes. Call (778) 400-2049 with the brand, appliance, neighborhood, and symptom and we will give you a free cost estimate based on what that combination usually costs in Victoria. Phone estimates are honest ranges, not binding invoices. The binding number is the on-site quote after diagnosis, because two Samsung French-door fridges with the problem being “it’s warm” can be a $20 door-switch fix or a sealed-system job. We will not bait you with a low phone number and inflate it on the driveway.

What does a typical repair cost for each appliance? - To answer this, we gathered some typical completed-job ranges in the Canadian market, including labor, with parts that are common rather than exotic. Your quote may sit outside or under this range (Use this pricing guide for planning, not as a menu, because our own prices are often less than competitors, and mostly average between $180 and $230 as of August 2026, with less than half of repairs costing more than $400):

• Refrigerator / freezer (fans, defrost, thermostat, gasket, ice maker): often $180 to $450. Sealed-system / compressor work is commonly $500 to $950+ and is where the 50% rule gets used. (Don't pay for a $1,000 repair when a new or used appliance costs $1,200!)
• Washer (pump, valve, belt, lid switch, shocks): often $180 to $400. Bearings, outer tubs, and some boards push higher.
• Dryer (element, thermal fuse, belt, rollers, igniter): often $180 to $400. Venting corrections are sometimes the whole job.
• Dishwasher (pump, valve, latch, heating element): often $180 to $400.
• Electric range / oven (bake/broil element, sensor, surface element): often $180 to $450.
• ​Gas range / oven (igniter, spark module, valve-related work): often $220 to $560, and must be done to BC gas-safety standards.
• OEM boards and European brand parts (Miele, Gaggenau, some Bosch and Thermador) cost more and can add wait time if they are not on the Island.

Can you list example part prices so I know what I'm paying for? - Part-only street prices fluctuate with brand, shipping to Vancouver Island, and whether the part is OEM or a quality aftermarket equivalent. These ballpark part costs (not including labor or tax) are what homeowners across Canada commonly see. Final prices are quoted on site, but here is our ballpark:

• Dryer drive belt: roughly $20 to $60. Idler pulley or rollers: $25 to $80 each. Heating element: $40 to $120. Thermal fuse: $15 to $40. Gas igniter: $40 to $120.
• Washer drain pump: $50 to $150. Water inlet valve: $40 to $120. Lid switch / door lock: $30 to $120. Shock absorbers (set): $40 to $120. Door boot seal on front-loaders: $80 to $180.
• Dishwasher drain or wash pump: $60 to $160. Inlet valve: $40 to $100. Door latch: $30 to $90. Heating element: $40 to $120.
• Fridge evaporator or condenser fan motor: $40 to $130. Defrost heater or bi-metal: $30 to $100. Door gasket: $80 to $220. Water inlet valve: $40 to $120. Ice maker assembly: $120 to $280.
• Oven bake or broil element: $40 to $120. Temperature sensor: $25 to $80. Surface coil or radiant element: $40 to $140.
• Control / main boards: commonly $150 to $450+ for the part alone on mid-range brands; premium boards can exceed that.

Labor, diagnosis credit, trip time across the Island, and GST sit on top of the part. A $25 thermal fuse is not a $25 service call. If a part is unusually expensive for your model, we say so before we order it!

Do you use OEM parts or aftermarket parts? - We use quality parts that fit and last. OEM (original manufacturer) parts are the default when they are the reliable choice and can be sourced in a timeframe that matches a same-day or next-visit repair. Quality aftermarket parts are used when they meet the spec, are available on the Island faster, and will not compromise the repair. We do not install no-name parts that fail in six weeks so the invoice looks cheaper today. Also, occasionally due to recall an aftermarket part can be a better quality choice than an OEM! We'll let you know if that's the case.

If you want OEM-only on a Miele, Sub-Zero, Wolf, or still-under-manufacturer-warranty unit, say so when you book. If a manufacturer will only honor a remaining factory warranty with an authorized-servicer sticker, we will tell you that before you spend money in the wrong channel.

What if I am not happy with the repair? - Call us. The 1-year warranty is the formal version of a simpler rule: if we repaired it and it is not right, we return. Do not let a well-meaning relative start taking the cabinet apart. That can void the warranty and turn a callback into a new diagnosis. We would rather hear from you on day two than read about it in a review on day twenty!

Do you charge extra for evenings, weekends, or same-day service? - We are already open seven days a week, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., because that is when Victoria needs us. Same-day service is the standard offer, not an upcharge category. If a job is outside the usual loop or requires a special return trip after parts arrive, we will tell you the number before you approve it. There's no surprise “after-hours premium” printed in small font after the work is done!

How do you accept payment? Is GST extra? - If you need a specific payment method such as card, e-transfer, invoicing for a property-management company, then just mention it when you book so the technician is not guessing at the door. GST is extra on taxable repair labor and parts in British Columbia. Hosts and landlords can request an invoice with the building address and unit number for their records.

Why not just buy a new appliance at a big-box store? - Sometimes you should. That is the 50% rule again! But a new mid-range fridge in Victoria is often $1,200 to $3,000 before delivery, haul-away, water-line hookup, and the afternoon you spend waiting for a delivery window. A $200 repair on a seven-year-old unit that otherwise works is usually the best option.

Repair keeps usable machines out of Hartland Dump and keeps your kitchen layout intact. Replacement is the right call when the cabinet is rusted, the compressor is gone on an old fridge, or you were already shopping. We will say which side of that line you are on. Our experience is pretty good at determine whether a replacement is the better option, so we'll b e upfront with you. Just remember us when that new appliance breaks down 10 years from now!

Do you repair small appliances? - No. We do not operate a small-appliance bench for toasters, kettles, blade grinders, personal blenders, stick vacuums, or similar countertop devices. Those units are often cheaper to replace than to diagnose, and they are not what our same-day in-home service is built for. We focus on major appliances: refrigeration, laundry, cooking, dishwashing, hoods, ice makers, RV appliances, and the other major units listed on our services page.

A built-in or over-the-range microwave, a built-in warming drawer that is part of a range wall, or a mini-fridge that is actually the suite’s only cold storage is a different conversation. Call with the model. If it is out of scope, we will say so in one sentence instead of booking a trip that wastes your morning.

Do you repair all brands? - Yes, that is in fact our specialty due to our highly experience staff. All brands, makes, models, and years are repaired by our team without issue. That includes Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Kenmore, GE, Hotpoint, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Westinghouse, LG, Samsung, Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Miele, Asko, Fisher & Paykel, Speed Queen, GE Café / Profile, Jenn-Air, Wolf, Sub-Zero, Viking, Dacor, Sharp, Panasonic, Norcold, Broan, Magic Chef, Admiral, Gibson, Inglis, Moffat, and others that show up in Victoria homes. See here form further details on our all brand repair service.

However, keep in mind that parts availability differs per brand and model. A Whirlpool belt is usually on the truck, but a specific Miele module may need to be ordered. We tell you which situation you are in before you approve the job!

Do you repair European and luxury brands like Miele, Bosch, Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Thermador? - Yes, that is another one of our specialties and why many homeowners prefer to work with us. Greater Victoria has a dense pocket of European and luxury kitchens, especially in Oak Bay, Rockland, downtown condos, and in newer custom homes in Saanich and North Saanich. Those machines are repairable just like any other, and our technicians have tons of experience working with them. These luxury appliances also use brand-specific diagnostics, tighter installation tolerances, and parts that sometimes ship from the Lower Mainland or further.

Expect a more precise conversation about parts lead time and cost. A Miele dishwasher pump is not priced like a 12-year-old Inglis valve. We still apply the 50% rule and the 1-year warranty. If the honest answer is “order the part, return in a few days,” that is the answer you get.

Do you repair older and discontinued models? - Often yes. Victoria’s housing stock is full of appliances that outlived the store that sold them. We work on older Maytag, Kenmore, GE, Inglis, and similar units every week. The limit is parts. If a board or sealed system is no longer made, we will say whether a compatible part exists or whether the money is better put toward a new machine. Age alone is not a reason to condemn a dryer that only needs a belt!

Do you install or replace appliances as well as repair them? - Yes. When repair is not the right spend, we can help with replacement and installation of major appliances like fridges, stoves, ovens, washers, and dryers, so you are not coordinating three vendors. Installation still has to respect gas, electrical, water, and venting rules. A gas range is not a “slide it in and hope” job in British Columbia. If the opening, hookups, or venting are wrong, we will flag it rather than force a fit.

Do you repair RV and motorhome appliances in Victoria? - Yes. RV and motorhome appliance repair is a listed service: refrigeration (including brands such as Norcold and Dometic-style absorption or compressor fridges), cooking appliances, and other onboard major units. RV work has its own failure modes, like travel vibration, propane systems, 12V/120V switching, and seasonal sitting in Island humidity. Tell us whether the vehicle is in a driveway, a storage lot, or a site we can access during our 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. window.

Do you repair garage doors and filtration systems? - Yes, garage door repair and filtration-system repair are on our service list. We specialize more so in garage door repair, but can repair some filtration systems so its best to call for specifics. These things are not small-appliance work, but they are also not the same trade as a fridge diagnosis. If your request is a broken torsion spring, an opener that will not close, or a household filtration system that has stopped, call and describe it. We will confirm whether that job is one we take or one we should point elsewhere. We would rather route you correctly than book the wrong technician!

Questions Related to Fridge Repair

Why is my fridge warm but the freezer is still cold? - This is one of the most common service calls in Victoria and usually does not mean “the fridge is dying.” In a combined fridge-freezer, cold air is often made in the freezer and shared with the fresh-food side through a damper and an evaporator fan. If that fan seizes, the damper sticks, the evaporator ices over because the defrost heater or defrost sensor failed, or the air tower is blocked with ice, meaning the freezer can still feel cold while milk spoils on the shelf.

Other causes of this problem: a packed freezer that blocks vents, a torn flap, or a control-board issue. Do not chip ice out of the evaporator with a knife. You can pierce the sealed system and turn a $200 or $400 repair into a full replacement. Call (778) 400-2049 and we will test fan, defrost, airflow, and control systems the same day.

My refrigerator is not cooling at all. What should I check before you arrive? - Confirm the outlet has power, as a tripped breaker or a GFCI in a garage or suite kitchen is an expensive way to learn the fridge was never broken. Listen for the compressor and fans. Feel the back or bottom for heat at the condenser. Check that the condenser coils are not packed with pet hair (common in Victoria homes with dogs and in suites where the fridge sits on carpet). Make sure the door closes fully and the gasket is not folded.

If food is already warming, move perishables to a amping or picnic cooler. A closed fridge holds temperature longer than one you keep opening to check. If you hear clicking every few minutes and no cooling, that often points to a start relay, overload, or compressor circuit. You need a professional diagnosis, not a tutorial.

Why is my fridge leaking water? - Inside the unit, the usual cause is a frozen or clogged defrost drain. Melt water that should run to a pan near the compressor overflows into the bin or onto the floor. In Island homes this shows up after a heavy defrost cycle, after you packed the fridge for a long weekend, or when dust and food slime close the drain tube. Other causes: a cracked drain pan, a failed water-inlet valve on ice/water models, a loose water-filter housing, or a drain-tube that has come off.

On the floor in front of the fridge, also check the ice-maker supply line and the filter head. A Saturday night drip under a French-door fridge is often the valve or the filter, not the compressor. We clear drains, replace valves and housings, and confirm the pan is intact so you are not mopping again the next day.

My fridge is freezing lettuce and leaving milk warm. Can that be repaired? - Yes. That pattern is usually airflow, a damper, a thermistor (temperature sensor), a control board, or a user setting that was bumped. Some French-door models have known damper and sensor issues. Overloading deli drawers against the rear vents will do the same thing. We measure actual temperatures, test sensors, and watch how air moves between compartments rather than turning the dial one click and leaving.

The ice maker stopped working. Do you repair ice makers? - Yes. Ice-maker repair is a common service. Failures cluster around the water-inlet valve, a frozen fill tube, a failed ice-maker module, a clogged filter, low water pressure, or a shut-off arm / optical sensor that thinks the bin is full. Victoria’s municipal water is generally good, but filters still scale and clog, and vacation homes that sit unused freeze the fill tube.

We also see ice makers that were turned off for a week and never turned back on, and dispenser-door flaps that stick in humid weather. If the rest of the fridge cools correctly, ice-maker work is usually a repair, not a reason to replace a $2,000 appliance.

Why is my refrigerator so loud? - Normally, refrigerators give a gentle hum from the compressor, occasional clicks as the damper or relays switch, and water sounds during ice fill or defrost. What isn't normal is grinding from a failing evaporator fan (often louder at night when the kitchen is quiet), rattling from a condenser fan hitting debris, buzzing from a failing ice auger, or a compressor that is short-cycling. Leveling feet that were never adjusted after delivery make some units sound possessed!

In older character homes with sloped floors, which are common in Fernwood, Vic West, and James Bay, a fridge that was “fine for years” can start walking and rattling after one big grocery load. We identify the source, and promise it isn't a ghost!

Do you repair side-by-side, French-door, bottom-freezer, top-freezer, and garage fridges? - Yes. Each layout fails in slightly different ways. French-door units have more boards, more dampers, and more ice/water plumbing. Side-by-sides have tall door gaskets that leak air if they warp. Top-freezers are simpler and often cheaper to keep alive. Garage and patio fridges in Greater Victoria face a specific climate problem: damp winters and cool summers. Many “garage-ready” claims still struggle if ambient temperature drops too low for the thermostat logic. Tell us where the unit lives when booking, please.

Can you recharge fridge freon / refrigerant? - A sealed system that is low on refrigerant has a leak. “Topping up freon” without finding the leak is not a repair; it is a delay. Modern household refrigerators use specific refrigerants (commonly R-134a or R-600a on newer units) and brazed circuits. If we diagnose a sealed-system leak or a failed compressor, we will talk honestly about cost versus replacement. On an older fridge, that conversation often lands on replacement. On a newer or high-end unit, repair can still be the right spend.

My freezer is icing up heavily. Is that normal in Victoria’s humidity? - Light frost near vents after frequent door opening is common. A glacier on the back wall, ice locking the drawers, or frost on boxes is not “Victoria weather.” That is a door that is not sealing, a gasket that is torn, a defrost system that has quit, or a habit of putting hot leftovers in uncovered. Marine air is humid, and that does make a bad gasket fail faster, but humidity is the amplifier, not the root cause. We test the gasket, door alignment, and defrost components.

When should I replace a refrigerator instead of repairing it? - Replace when the compressor or sealed system has failed on a fridge that is already near or past typical life (often 10 to 15 years depending on type), when rust is in the cabinet, when you have paid for two unrelated major repairs in a short span, or when the repair quote crosses the 50% rule. Repair when the unit is younger, the failure is a fan, defrost heater, thermostat, valve, gasket, or ice maker, and you like the box you have. French-door models often have a shorter comfortable life than a simple top-freezer. We will put that in plain language on site.

Questions Related to Washer Repair

My washing machine will not drain. What is going on? - A washer that ends the cycle sitting in water usually has a clogged or failed drain pump, a jammed impeller (coin, bobby pin, sock), a kinked or high drain hose, a blocked standpipe, or a failed lid switch / door lock that never lets the machine advance to drain. Front-loaders add a drain-filter pocket that owners forget exists. In suites, the standpipe shared with a laundry tub is a frequent villain.

Safe homeowner step: if the machine has a drain-filter access door, place a tray underneath and open it slowly. Do not force a top-loader transmission or pull the pump if you cannot see what you are doing. Standing water in a second-floor Vic West suite is a downstairs neighbor problem. Call and we will pump, clear, and replace what actually failed.

What if the washer fills but will not spin or agitate? - Common causes of the problem include: lid switch or door lock, drive belt, motor coupling (a designed weak point on many Whirlpool / Inglis / Kenmore direct-drive top-loaders), clutch, failed shifter, control board, or an out-of-balance detection that keeps retrying. Front-loaders that will not spin often have a door lock, drain issue, or worn shocks / bearings. A machine that hums loudly and does not move is asking for diagnosis, not another reset.

Why is my washing machine leaking? - Map the leak! Tracing the leak back will often tell you what's casuing it, so here's a little guide. Leaks from the top corners of a front-loader: door boot seal, detergent dispenser oversuds, or a clogged drain that backs up. Leaks from the back: inlet hoses or the valve. Leaks from the bottom front of a top-loader: tub-to-pump hose, pump, or a stripped fill fitting. In Greater Victoria, old rubber inlet hoses that have been on the machine since 2014 are a flood waiting for a weekday when nobody is home. Braided stainless hoses are cheap insurance.

Oversudsing from regular detergent in an HE (high efficiency) machine looks like a leak and is not one. If water is on the floor, stop using the washer! A “small leak” under a stacked pair can run along the closet floor and into the suite below.

My front-load washer smells like mildew. Is that a repair? - Often it is maintenance plus a worn door boot. Front-loaders in humid Island homes grow biofilm on the gasket, dispenser, and outer tub if the door is kept shut and high-efficiency detergent is overdosed. Leave the door ajar between cycles, clean the gasket fold, run a periodic cleaner cycle, and use HE detergent at the correct dose. If the boot is torn or the drain path is stagnant, we replace the seal and clear the path. Smell alone on an otherwise healthy machine is not automatically a $400 board.

What if the washer is violent or walks across the floor during spin? - Causes for this can be unlevel feet, a shipping bolt that was never removed on a relatively new install, failed shock absorbers or suspension springs, a lump of laundry on one side, or worn bearings. Langford townhome closets and older heritage floors that are not flat make a marginal machine look possessed. We level, inspect suspension, and tell you if bearings are the real noise. Bearing jobs on some front-loaders approach replacement territory; shocks and feet usually do not.

​Do you repair both top-load and front-load washers, including stacked laundry pairs? - Yes we certainly do. Top-load agitator, top-load impeller / HE, front-load, and stacked washer-dryer units in closets. Stacked pairs in downtown condos need more disassembly time and sometimes two people to move safely. Tell us if the pair is in a closet with bi-fold doors, on a pedestal, or on a second-story suite with tight stairs. That is scheduling information, not a reason we decline the job.

My washer shows an error code. Can you still diagnose it without the manual? - Yes. Codes are a starting point, not a diagnosis. The same letters mean different things on Samsung, LG, Bosch, and Whirlpool. OE / 5E / E3-style drain codes, IE / 4E inlet codes, Ub / UE unbalance, and door-lock codes are the everyday set. Take a photo of the display. Do not clear it until we see it if you can still run the machine safely. We test the component the code points to instead of throwing a board at the first blink.

When is a washing machine not worth repairing? - Cracked outer tubs, seized bearings on an older front-loader, repeated board failures, or a quote that crosses 50% of a comparable new machine. A 12-year-old unit with a $180 pump is still a repair. A 12-year-old unit with a cracked tub and a rusted cabinet is a trip to the recycler. Speed Queen and other heavy-duty residential machines change that math because the platform is built to be serviced.

Questions Related to Dryer Repair

My dryer runs but will not heat. What usually failed? - Electric dryers: heating element, thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat, or a broken wire at the element. Gas dryers: igniter, gas valve coils, flame sensor, or thermal fuse. Across both, a clogged vent that caused the fuse to open is the Island’s most expensive “I already cleaned the lint trap” story. The trap is not the vent. The vent is the hose or rigid pipe through the wall to the outside flap.

A thermal fuse that is open is a symptom as often as it is a cause. Replacing the fuse without fixing airflow means we will see you again. We test the heat circuit and inspect venting so the repair holds through a Victoria winter when everyone is drying towels at once.

Clothes take two or three cycles to dry. Is the dryer broken? - Sometimes. More often the vent is restricted. There can be lint in a long foil hose, a crushed pipe behind a stacked unit, an outside flap painted shut, or a bird nest in a wall cap. Restricted airflow overheats the dryer, cooks the fuse, and leaves clothes damp. Other causes: a weak element, a failing blower wheel, wet laundry from a washer that is not spinning out, or oversized loads.

Victoria condos with long concealed vents are repeat customers for this symptom. If the cabinet is scorching hot and the room smells like hot lint, stop using the dryer. Lint in a vent is a fire problem, not a convenience problem. We repair the machine and tell you if the venting has to be corrected for the repair to mean anything.

What if my dryer is squealing, thumping, or roaring? - Squeal: worn belt, seized idler pulley, or dry drum glides. Thump: flattened or worn drum rollers, a bafflescrew backing out, or a small item caught in the drum seal. Roar: blower wheel or motor bearings. A handful of coins in the blower housing will sound like the machine is coming apart. We pull the drum and replace the wear parts as a set when they are due, because a new belt on polished-down rollers is a callback waiting to happen.

What if mt dryer drum will not turn? - Broken belt, seized motor, failed idler, or a drum that has dropped off the rollers. If you hear the motor and the drum stays still, think belt or idler. If you hear nothing, think motor, breaker, door switch, or control. Door switches fail more often than people expect, especially on units whose doors are slammed in shared laundry rooms.

Is a gas dryer repair different from an electric dryer repair in BC? - Yes. The mechanical wear parts are cousins. The fuel side is not. Gas dryer work involves ignition components and a gas valve and must be handled to British Columbia gas-safety standards. If you smell gas, see a yellow lazy flame, or hear a long hiss without ignition, shut the dryer down, ventilate if it is safe, and call. Do not “test it one more time.” Technical Safety BC oversees gas appliance servicing in this province; this is not a DIY kind of thing!

Do you clean dryer vents, or only repair the dryer? - A dryer that overheats because of a clogged vent cannot be honestly repaired by swapping a fuse and walking away. We address the appliance and the airflow path we can reach as part of making the repair stick. Long concealed runs in strata buildings sometimes need a dedicated venting conversation with the building. If your only need is a stand-alone duct-cleaning subscription and the dryer itself is fine, say so when you book so we set the right expectation.

When should I replace a dryer? - Replace when the motor and drum support are both gone on an old unit, when the cabinet is rusted through, when gas components would cost more than a comparable electric or gas replacement, or when you were already moving to a heat-pump dryer for energy reasons. Repair when the problem is heat, belt, rollers, fuse, switch, or igniter and the drum still turns true. Dryers are among the most repair-economical appliances we see.

Questions Related to Dishwasher Repair

My dishwasher will not drain. Do I need a new pump? - Not always. First causes: a dirty filter, food packed in the chopper, a kinked drain hose, a high loop that was never installed, or the knockout plug still sitting in a new garbage disposal tap. That last one is the classic “brand-new dishwasher, already broken” call. Then we look at the drain pump, check valve, and control. Clean the filter monthly. Victoria households that scrape plates well still forget the filter until the tub is a pond.

What if my dishwasher's dishes come out wet, sandy, or still dirty? - Dirty: worn wash arm, clogged jets, a weak wash pump, a heater that is not helping dry or helping the detergent work, low incoming water temperature, or hard-water film. Wet: failed heating element, a vent fan, rinse-aid empty, or a plastic-heavy load that never dries well even on a healthy machine. Sandy or gritty: a filter that has been bypassing debris back onto plates.

Incoming water should be hot. If the kitchen is far from the water heater, which is often seen in longer rancher layouts in Saanich and Colwood, then run the sink hot before you start the dishwasher. We test the mechanical side rather than telling you to buy a different detergent and hoping.

What if my dishwasher will not start or the door will not latch? - Door latch and door switches are everyday parts. So are control panels that die after steam and splash, and child-lock modes that owners did not know existed. Confirm the breaker, the under-sink outlet (often a GFCI), and that the door is actually square in the tub. Built-in units in older Victoria kitchens sometimes sag after the countertop was replaced and the dishwasher was never re-leveled.

What if my dishwasher leaks from the door or underneath? - Door leaks: worn door gasket, a door that is not aligned, oversuds from the wrong detergent, or a blocked vent. Underneath: inlet valve, hose, pump seal, or a float switch stuck down that keeps filling. Stop the machine and shut the water if it is actively leaking. We do not “seal it with more silicone” as a repair. We replace the failed part and check level so the door gasket can do its job.

Does Victoria’s water affect dishwashers and washing machines? - Greater Victoria’s water is generally soft to moderately mineralized depending on the source mix, but scale, soap scum, and filter slime still happen, especially on heating elements, inlet screens, and dishwasher tubs that never see a cleaner cycle. Homes on wells outside the core (parts of Metchosin, Highlands, further Sooke / Saanich Peninsula pockets) can have very different mineral and sediment loads. Inlet-valve screens clog. Elements crust. We treat the appliance in front of us, and we will tell you if water quality is shortening parts.

Questions Related to Ovens, Stoves, Ranges, Cooktops, and Hood Fans

What if my electric oven will not heat, or it heats unevenly? - This is often caused by a bake element, broil element, temperature sensor, control board, or a door gasket that is leaking heat. Elements that blister or break are visible. Sensors that drift are not, as the display may say 350°F but a thermometer will say 310°F. Uneven baking is sometimes a convection fan, sometimes a single dead element, sometimes a warped door. Do not line the floor of the oven with foil; it reflects heat onto the element and shortens its life. We test elements and sensors rather than replacing the whole control on a guess.

What if my burner on my electric cooktop is dead, weak, or stays on? - Coil cooktops: the element, the receptacle, or the infinite switch. Smooth-top radiant: the element under the glass, the limiter, or the switch. A burner that will not shut off is a safety issue, so kill power at the breaker and call us as soon as you can. Cracked ceramic glass is usually a replacement of the glass or the cooktop assembly and can push the 50% rule quickly if the appliance is old. We repair elements and switches when the glass is intact, and also replace the glass if necessary or advised.

What if my gas stove clicks but will not light, or I smell gas? - Clicking without flame is often a dirty igniter, a burner cap sitting wrong after cleaning, or a failed spark module. A smell of gas is not a troubleshooting puzzle. If you smell gas, do not chase sparks! Leave the area, avoid switches and open flame, and treat it as a gas emergency. For non-emergency ignition problems, such as one burner sulking after a boil-over, we clean, align, and replace igniters and modules.

Gas cooking appliances in British Columbia fall under the provincial gas-safety regime administered by Technical Safety BC. Servicing is not a casual DIY category. More information about this can be found at: https://www.technicalsafetybc.ca/certification/gas/appliance-service-technician

What if the oven temperature does not match the dial or the food burns on one rack? - Calibrate only after we know the sensor and elements are healthy. A $15 oven thermometer is a useful homeowner's checking tool; it is not a repair. Door hinges that have lost tension dump heat. Convection fans that have seized create hot and cold racks. We measure, test, and replace the failed part instead of telling you to “just set it 25 degrees lower” forever, which can be a safety hazard if guests are doing the cooking for you.

Do you repair range hoods and over-the-range microwaves? - Hood vent repair is a service we do, especially when motors howl, when lights fail, switches don't work, and when grease-caked fans are louder than they are useful. Over-the-range and built-in microwaves are major kitchen units we can often service (door switches are the everyday failure; magnetrons and high-voltage components are a repair-versus-replace conversation). Countertop mini-microwaves that cost $120 new are usually not a sensible in-home repair. Tell us the model anyway and we'll let you know over the phone.

The self-clean cycle left my oven dead. Can that be fixed? - Yes, and it is a classic issue. Self-clean drives the cavity to extreme temperatures. Thermal fuses open, locks stick, boards fail, and door-lock motors die. We see this after a first-time clean on an older range that had years of soil in it. The oven is usually repairable. Whether you should run self-clean again on that machine is a separate, honest conversation.

Questions Related To Brands, Error Codes, and “Is This a Known Issue?”

Do you repair Samsung and LG refrigerators with the cooling and ice-maker problems people talk about? - Yes. We service Samsung and LG refrigeration every week in Victoria. Those brands have had well-publicized clusters around ice makers, defrost behavior, fans, and some sealed-system / linear-compressor conversations depending on the year and model. A web forum is not a diagnosis. We test your serial-numbered machine and quote the repair in front of you. Parts for these brands are generally obtainable. Same-day is still the goal when the part is a common one.

My Bosch or Miele dishwasher is beeping. Is that something local techs can actually fix? - Yes. Bosch and Miele are common in Oak Bay, downtown condos, and newer custom kitchens. Error codes on these machines are specific — drain path, heater, aqua sensor, circulation pump, door. They are not mysterious European spells. What is different is parts price and sometimes lead time. We repair them regularly. Bring the model number from the inner door and a photo of the code.

Do you work on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Kenmore laundry pairs? - Yes, constantly! Direct-drive couplings, lid switches, belts, pumps, and shifter assemblies on this family of machines are some of the most repaired parts in North America. Kenmore units were often built by Whirlpool or others depending on the year, so the model number tells us which parts book to use. These are usually same-day repairs when the part is a standard wear item.

Can you repair GE, Frigidaire, Electrolux, and Hotpoint ranges and fridges? - Yes. These platforms are everywhere in rentals and older Island homes. Elements, sensors, igniters, evaporator fans, and defrost kits are bread-and-butter work. We also see aftermarket “condo-size” versions of these brands in downtown towers. Same process: diagnose, quote, repair, 1-year warranty.

What information should I read off the appliance for a faster quote? - Brand, model, serial if you can see it, the error code exactly as displayed, what the appliance is doing versus what it should do, when it started, and your neighborhood. “Samsung fridge, French door, beeps and the fridge side is 10°C, Oak Bay” is a useful call. “My appliance is broken” is not.

Where can I find my appliance's model tag? - Fridge model tags hide in the side wall of the liner, washer model tags hide under the lid or on the back, dryer model tags are often in the door opening, and dishwasher model tags are usually on the side of the door. Range model tags can likely be found on the frame when the door is open.

Questions Related to Safety, DIY, Warranties, and "When Not to Wait"

Is it safe to repair an appliance myself? - Some checks are safe: breaker, plug, lint trap, dishwasher filter, level feet, making sure a burner cap is seated, emptying pockets before a wash. Past that, you are in live voltage, stored capacitor charge (especially microwaves), gas, water next to electricity, and sealed refrigeration circuits. A wrong move on a gas valve or a microwave high-voltage section is not a learning experience. We exist so you do not have to take that risk. If you already started a DIY repair, tell us what you did so we are not diagnosing a second problem you created.

Will a DIY repair or a third-party repair void my manufacturer warranty? - Often yes, if the unit is still under the factory warranty and the manufacturer can show unauthorized work caused the failure. If you are still inside the manufacturer window, check the warranty packet and ask us before anyone opens the cabinet. Sometimes the correct path is the brand’s authorized channel. Sometimes the factory warranty already expired and our 1-year service warranty is the coverage that actually matters. We will not pretend we are the factory authorized servicer for a brand unless that is actually the arrangement.

The appliance is sparking, burning, or tripped the breaker. Should I keep resetting it? - No. Reset once. If it trips again, leave the breaker off and call us for help. Repeated resets on a shorted element, a pinched wire behind a dryer, or a failed compressor circuit is how small problems become scorch marks. Burning smell at a range control or a dryer drum is a stop-using-it event, not a “finish this load” event.

I smell gas near my range or gas dryer. What do I do? - Treat it as urgent! Do not switch lights or appliances on or off, do not use a phone in the immediate area if you can step away first, ventilate if it is clearly safe to do so, and leave if the smell is strong. Contact emergency services and your gas utility as appropriate, then call us for the appliance repair once the scene is safe! FortisBC is the gas distributor for many Island customers; follow current utility emergency guidance. Appliance repair starts after the immediate hazard is controlled.

A washer or dishwasher is flooding. What do I do before you get here? - Shut off the water supply valves to that appliance, which is usually under the sink for a dishwasher, on the wall behind or beside a washer. Trip the breaker if water is near the control or motor. Move anything absorbent. Photograph the scene if you rent and will need a record. Then call (778) 400-2049. Do not run “one more cycle to see if it was a fluke.”

Questions About Victoria and South Vancouver Island Specifics

Does living on Vancouver Island change parts availability and repair time? - Yes, and we plan for it. Common wear parts live on the truck because a ferry schedule should not decide whether your fridge gets cold tonight. Unusual European modules, some sealed-system components, and discontinued boards may come from the Lower Mainland or further. When that is the case, you hear the lead time before you approve. Same-day still covers the majority of belts, pumps, elements, fuses, valves, fans, and switches we see in a normal Victoria week.

Do power blips and winter storms cause appliance failures here? - They do. Brief outages and brownouts can lock electronics, scramble boards, and leave ice makers in a sulk. After a windstorm, check the breaker panel and any GFCI feeding a garage fridge or suite laundry before you assume the appliance died. Unplug sensitive units for a minute and restore power once. If the board is actually damaged, that is a repair we do. A surge protector on a fridge is not a substitute for a healthy circuit, but it is not a silly idea on a street that flickers every November either.

Our house is older, so will you work on appliances in heritage homes and suites? - Yes. Character homes in Fernwood, Fairfield, James Bay, Vic West, and Oak Bay often have sloped floors, shared walls, 30-amp dryer circuits that were an afterthought, and laundry in basements with low headroom. We work in those rooms constantly. Flag knob-and-tube or panel limitations if you know about them. We can repair the appliance; we will also tell you if the receptacle or venting is the reason the last three dryers have all died the same way.

Do you service Sidney, the Saanich Peninsula, Sooke, Langford, and Duncan? - Langford, Colwood, View Royal, Saanich, North Saanich, Saanichton, Sidney, and the core of Greater Victoria are regular territory. Sooke, Jordan River, Duncan, Shawnigan Lake, and Cowichan Bay appear on our brand and service-area lists. Distance affects the day’s routing more than it changes the work. Call (778) 400-2049 with the address. We would rather give you a real arrival window than pretend every address is ten minutes from downtown.

We are in a short-term rental. Can you prioritize turnover repairs? - Yes. Dead appliances before check-in are a different kind of emergency than a homeowner who can eat out for a night. Tell us the turnover time. Fridge doors, oven elements, ice makers, laundry pairs, and noisy hoods are the usual Airbnb list. If you host more than one property, keep our number in the operations doc so you are not searching “appliance repair Victoria” at midnight. Details: (778) 400-2049.

Can landlords and property managers book and be invoiced? - Yes. We work for owners, tenants (with owner approval), building managers, and agencies. Have the unit number, access plan, spend cap, and who authorizes extras ready when you call. Tenants: if the appliance belongs to the landlord, get authorization first so you are not paying for a repair the lease puts on the owner — and so the owner is not surprised by a technician in the suite.

Are you the cheapest appliance repair company in Victoria? - We aim to be affordable and fair, not theatrical. Our published position is that overall prices compare well, the diagnosis fee credits toward the job, and the warranty is a full year. A quote that is dramatically cheaper usually skipped a part, skipped the vent, or skipped the callback policy. A quote that is dramatically higher is sometimes a luxury-parts reality and sometimes padding. Ask what is included, what the warranty is, and what you pay if you decline. Then decide. We claim to be the most affordable when considering professional, expert service that comes in a timely manner, not compared to amateurs found on online marketplaces.

Questions About Installation, Second Opinions, and Edge Cases

Can you hook up a fridge water line, a dryer vent, or a washer after I bought a new unit? - Installation and replacement are part of the service list for fridges, stoves, ovens, washers, and dryers. Water lines need the right fitting and a valve that actually holds. Dryer vents need correct pipe, not leftover foil accordion crushed behind the machine. Washers need level, the shipping bolts out, and hoses that will not burst in a closet. Gas connections are a regulated task. Describe the unit and the opening when you book.

Another company already looked at it. Will you take a second look? - Yes. Bring the previous invoice if you have it. We re-diagnose rather than trust a four-word note that says “needs board.” Sometimes they were right. Sometimes the board was the expensive guess. You pay for our diagnosis; you do not pay extra for the privilege of disagreeing with the last visitor.

The appliance is still under a home-warranty or insurance claim. Can you work on it? - Often yes, with paperwork. Home warranties and insurers have their own authorization, rates, and approved-vendor lists. Call us and call them. If we are not on that list, forcing the visit can leave you paying twice. If you are paying yourself and claiming later, keep the invoice and photos. We document the failure so your file is not “broken fridge, please pay.”

Do you repair wine fridges, mini-fridges, freezers, and second units in the garage? - Freezers and deep freezers are certainly repairable by our team. Mini-fridges that are a suite’s primary refrigeration can be in scope. Specialty wine units and garage beer fridges depend on the platform and parts. Garage units face Victoria’s cool, damp winter, and many standard fridges are not designed to thermostat correctly in a cold garage and will “fail” in a way that is actually ambient temperature. Describe the unit and where it lives when you call, please.

Do you repair commercial kitchen equipment? - No. We repair residential appliances in homes, including Airbnbs and rental suites. We do not repair restaurant lines, walk-in coolers, commercial dishwashers, or other commercial kitchen equipment, but we do repair appliances for home businesses. If the unit lives in a house, condo, suite, or short-term rental, call (778) 400-2049 because we can certainly fix it!

Can you help me decide repair versus replace before I book? - Start with age, original price, the symptom, and the 50% rule we mentioned at the top of this FAQ. Then call us at (778) 400-2049. A phone estimate plus a $95 credited diagnosis is cheaper than buying a new laundry pair because the old washer “seemed tired.” We will not talk you into a repair that is a bad spend. We also will not talk you into a new appliance if it is easier to source a $45 pump.

Extra Questions We Sometimes Get Over The Phone And During At-Home Visits

Why does my fridge run all the time? - Dirty condenser coils, a weak door seal, a room that is hot (west-facing kitchens in summer, tight closets), a failed condenser fan, low refrigerant from a leak, or a unit that is undersized for how often the door opens. Continuous run plus poor cooling is a problem. Continuous run plus good temperatures in a warm kitchen can just be the machine working. We measure temperatures and look at coils and seals before condemning a compressor.

Is it normal for a new appliance to need repair in the first year? - It happens more than marketing brochures like to admit, especially ice makers, boards, and sensors. If the unit is inside the manufacturer warranty, use that path first so you do not pay twice. If the manufacturer is slow and you need the kitchen working today, call us and we will tell you whether an out-of-pocket repair is smarter than waiting on a customer support ticket number with your appliance's manufacturer.

Do pets and lint really ruin appliances? - Yes. Condenser coils packed with fur make fridges run hot. Dryer and washer motors ingest lint and hair. Island homes with shedding dogs and a laundry closet that never gets vacuumed are a pattern we recognize on sight. Vacuuming coils once or twice a year and keeping the dryer trap and vent clear is the cheapest maintenance you will ever skip and then pay for.

Can salt air in coastal neighborhoods affect appliances? - In places near the water, like in James Bay, Vic West shoreline, Oak Bay, and Sidney, yes! - fasteners, terminals, and some cabinets corrode faster. We see rusty dryer drums, crusted ground connections, and seized screws. It does not mean every beach-adjacent fridge is doomed. It does mean we treat corrosion as a real failure mode, not as sloppy previous work.

Should I unplug appliances during a trip or when I leave a vacation home? - For a weekend, leave the fridge on. For a seasonal home, follow a shutdown plan: empty and dry the fridge and washer, leave doors ajar, shut water valves to the washer and ice maker, and clean the dryer vent so you are not returning to a science experiment. Many “the cottage fridge died over the winter” calls are mold, ice-maker lines that froze, or boards that sat in damp. If you want a pre-season or post-season check on a second home, book it like any other visit.

Do you sell parts only, without a service call? - We are a mobile repair company, not a parts counter! If you need a part installed correctly, with a warranty, book the repair with us. If you already have a part and only want labor, say so, as we still need to confirm it is the right part for the failure. Installing a customer-supplied part of unknown quality can change what we will warranty. Ask when you book. If all you want is the buy a replacement part for a DIY project, we're not the company for that although we can kindly point you in the right direction as we love helping locals solve their problems.

Will repairing my appliance lower my BC Hydro bill? - A fridge with iced evaporators, a dryer with a clogged vent, or a dishwasher that rewashes because the soil sensor is blind will use more electricity than a healthy unit. Fixing those failures often drops runtime. It will not turn a 1998 top-freezer into a current ENERGY STAR model. If your bill spiked and one appliance is always hot to the touch, that is worth a diagnosis. BC Hydro’s own efficiency guidance is useful context for replacement decisions.

What is the most common appliance repair you see in Greater Victoria? - In any given week the cluster is familiar: dryers that do not heat because of vents and fuses, washers that will not drain, fridges with warm fresh-food sections from fans and defrost problems, dishwashers with dirty filters and tired pumps, and ovens with open bake elements. The “Victoria flavour” is stacked condo laundry, heritage uneven floors, Airbnb turnover damage, and parts logistics imposed by the water between us and the big warehouses. That is the work we built the week around.

Do you have a physical shop I can drop an appliance at? - Our model is mobile: we bring the repair to your door across south Vancouver Island. We do not run a public drop-off counter for small appliances. If a unit must come out of the home to be worked on, that will be planned on a case-by-case basis after diagnosis, not assumed.

Still Have Questions?

If you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask. For all info pertaining to repairing appliances in Victoria BC, call (778) 400-2049 between 7:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m., seven days a week, or submit our contact form. Doing all-brand, same-day major appliance repair in Victoria BC is our job. If we can do it, we will say yes. If we cannot, we will say no quickly so you can move on!

Thank you for reading. We hope you found this information helpful.